The very name ‘Qabail’ with regards to the culinary world is enough to draw anyone’s attention, for the food of Pakistan’s ‘north-western’ mountains has a special taste, representing just one aspect of a people truly born free.

Almost three years ago we visited the Shaheen Shinwari eatery in Johar Town, and it was a very special experience. The very thought of their Shinwari lamb still makes the mouth water. That is why when a dear friend suggested we visit the Qabail restaurant, just off MM Alam Road on the edge of Ghalib Road in Gulberg, my answer was a foregone conclusion. As we parked and walked to the eatery, it was clear that this place has planned their cooking in the only way possible, which is before the very eyes of its salivating customers.

This place has a choice between either traditionally sitting on the floor with a slightly raised table or the usual table-and-chair configuration. The ambience is very much like a Pakhtun tribal chieftain’s ‘outer house’. What amazes me about ‘tribal’ food is that like the traditional Chinese (in China only) they sip qehwa throughout the meal. It allegedly performs sort of a digestive role in the mainly dishes that are before you. The menu came and we had four persons to order for.

Our order was rather simple, in that we wanted Kabuli Pulao Dam Pukht, Lamb Chops, Chappal Kebabs and a Malai Boti Mixed Grill. The waiter suggested Lamb Karahi because it has sauce, which I was in no mood to try given the assortment before us. “We want Qabaili food, not Lahori shorba.”

I have nothing against Lamb Karahi but then it is a standalone meal. Next, we wanted fresh Qandahari naan from their on-site tandoor. The waiter kept suggesting Gulab Jaman for sweets, which I resisted and said that we will make up our mind after the main meal is over.

The pulao had carrot shards and kishmish (raisins) and other assortments with lamb pieces. The dam pukht description is simply the description of the manner in which it is slow-cooked, which is the way rice should be cooked. Then came the Malai Boti Mixed Grill followed by four huge Chappal Kebabs and the amazing Qandahari naans. We all got going and a silence fell over all of us. Right in the middle the Lamb Chops arrived. It was a distracting addition to an already complete menu. Oh, their aroma was over-whelming. It was like further spoiling four spoilt boys.

Let me describe each item separately. The Kabuli Pulao was tasty in a subtle sort of way. Devoid of the sharp spices that we are all used to, this has a distinct lamb yakhni (chicken stock) base which makes it special. The lamb pieces tended to melt in the mouth. The secret of classy rice dishes is the slow and patient manner in which it is cooked. With a raita it is a complete meal at the best of times.

Then we went for the Chappal Kebabs with these amazing naans and it must be said they have their recipes done to perfection. By this time at least I was almost full, as I could see from the speed of my friends that they were confused, for humans like to try everything. The Malai Boti was excellent and the Lamb Chops just outstanding. The trick of enjoying the almost dry food from the ‘northwestern mountains’ of Pakistan is to go slow, sip your qehwa to wash away the tastes of the last dish.

Now let me grade the different aspects of this eating out experience. We will mark from one (bad) to nine (exceptional) on eight parameters. Mind you, the same place can have a different score on a separate visit, and that reflects on culinary management consistency. If it varies too much then there is something wrong with the eatery.

For food quality, this place gets a seven, for food taste seven, for service quality five, for ambience a six, for quality of the crockery and cutlery five, for cleanliness six, for prices six (this is no economy place) and for ease of parking a six is justified. These eight parameters average to six out of a maximum of nine. But then given their food quality, this is a place I would not mind returning to. Worth a try at any time.

MAMMA GEE KEBABS: Over the years we have seen that the kebabs and potato ‘tikkis’ of Mamma Gee’s on Temple Road have never wavered in quality. In Lahore, they have a standalone reputation. Last Wednesday afternoon I ventured on to Temple Road from the Abid Market end only to get stuck in a terrible traffic jam because of the digging going on. At the end, I managed to try these delicacies.

This is a 65-year-old shop that is now run by the original Mamma Gee’s third generation. It seems they have stuck to the original recipes and the end product is exceptional. After a reasonable snack I also managed to have some kebabs packed, which I finished before getting home where I ‘confessed’ to starvation. The things a food critic has to do to survive. — AMSHE

Published in Dawn, March 25th, 2018