If you really want to enjoy amazing Lahori food, the Walled City is the place to go, and I do not mean the recent ‘posh’ creations. On a recent visit, we decided to try out an old favourite -- tava chicken -- from Tibbi Bazaar inside Taxali opposite Ali Park.

This portion of Taxali is where musicians and dancers, especially of the classical schools, once lived. But then because of the hypocritical manner in which people are judged, not to speak of almost universal fake piety, these pillars of the city’s arts moved out and now reside in faraway colonies. But luckily the musical instrument manufacturing shops, the tailoring shops, the ‘khussa’ shops and, most importantly, the eateries remain.

The most famous of these is the legendary ‘siri paaye’ of Phajja, which in old days closed by nine in the morning, for it was essentially a breakfast dish. Now it operates 24 hours, and their goods are rather watery as my friend Sheero suspects. The young of the family have opened shops in faraway colonies. The name alone helps them. But the shop that attracts me more is Arif Chatkhara, the ‘tava’ chicken specialist.

Recently, one evening we drove to the place. As was to be expected there was a rush, even though the nearby cinema no longer operates. We parked our car almost 75 yards away and walked to Arif’s shop. Luckily the owner recognised me and cautioned the young chef. I choose three better-looking chicken quarters and asked him to go easy on the spices, but let the ginger and garlic flow, provided he cooks them well too. “Get me fresh ‘kulchas’, not the cold ‘naans’ you are dishing out.” The young cook raised an eyebrow. He smiled and promised me ‘manna from heaven’.

Before setting off to wait in the car, I warned him that if we were still hungry after the meal, we would order again. He was quick on the uptake and suggested that in that case I add another quarter to the order. That sounded reasonable. So we chatted away in the car and I went over the history of place. It seemed like eternity by the time the waiter came carefully balancing his tray. Everything seemed in order and we spread the delights in three plates with the ‘kulcha’ basket balanced near the gear space.

Oh, it was delightful! The chicken had been finished to utter perfection with ample tomatoes and yogurt with the ginger flavour standing out. The taste was unlike anything you get in Defence or other posh, and not-so-posh, areas of Lahore. Amazingly the new ‘posh’ eateries on Fort Road also get their ‘tava’ chicken from Arif, only they charge twice as much.

There was total silence in the car as we polished off this delightful meal. The hot ‘kulchas’ with sesame seeds aplenty were a delight on to themselves. In our youth we had breakfast with yogurt with them. Today our children pull long faces if this is suggested. The additional chicken piece made all the difference for by the time we had finished the plates were clean and our tummies full.

Now let me judge this meal on the usual scale of one to nine. For food taste it gets a whopping eight, for food quality a seven, for cleanliness a five, for service a six, for prices (call it value for money) it gets seven. As it was an eat-in-the-car affair the parameter of ambience will not apply, though I enjoy eating in the safety of my car. Just one more aspect is crockery, which gets five. This averages to 6.3 out of nine, which for such an outing is very good. Forget parking woes for that comes with the experience. Highly recommended.

As I started the car the other two occupants wanted to eat ‘kulfa’ from the Walled City. Now this meant another one hour drive around Circular Road and parking inside Shahalam Bazaar near Pappar Mandi. The drive was not all that bad, for driving in old Lahore is like a dodgem car experience. The trick is not to be ruffled. When in Rome do as the Romans do.

Haji Sahib’s shop was open and we ordered three ‘kulfas’. They are always a delight and the ‘lachhas’ (vermicelli) in the cold water scented with rosewater added to the smooth ‘kulfas’. After we had ‘cooled off’ the lady in the back seat wanted to take home four pairs of ‘firni’. It was a typical Lahori evening worth cherishing.

Published in Dawn, April 15th, 2018