With his ashes immersed in the Ravi, Kuldip Nayar becomes one with the river’s legends
Just inside the Lahore Fort’s Alamgiri Gate — a massive structure named after Emperor Aurangzeb that faces the Badshahi Masjid — is a small structure capped by a dome.
This is the temple of Lav, named after one of the twin sons of the Hindu deity Ram.
Next to the temple, the road begins to ascend, heading towards the highest point of the fort, which overlooks the entire walled city of Lahore.
This vantage point affords the location a particular advantage and is the reason it was chosen as the site of the fort.
According to local legends, it was here that the sage Valmiki, who composed the Ramayana, set up his modest ashram and gave refuge to Ram’s wife Sita after she was banished from the kingdom of Ayodhya.
Later, her son Lav would lay the foundation of the city of Lahore.
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The river Ravi once used to flow next to this mound, cutting at its edges. Like the other rivers of the Punjab, the Ravi is whimsical.
This is perhaps a freedom all rivers that flow through the plains enjoy. The Ravi would change its direction when it willed, and break open its banks when it desired, flooding the region.
The mound therefore provided protection to the sage, while the river became the source of sustenance for the ashram.
Valmiki was not the only sage to find sanctuary on the banks of the Ravi. Skirting the walls of the Lahore Fort, facing the Minar-i-Pakistan monument, are the remains of the samadhis of Bava Jhengardh Shah and Baba Vasti Ram.
The stories of both of these saints date back to a time when the distinctions between Hindus and Sikhs were not crystallised.
There are several competing narratives about the life of Bava Jhengardh Shah, also known as Suthra. One narrative states that he was a devotee of Guru Hargobind, the sixth Sikh guru.
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His devotees, an idiosyncratic group of mendicants came to be known as Suthra Shahi Fakir.
Not far from the samadhi of Bava Jhengardh Shah is that of Vasti Ram, son of Bulaka Ram, a disciple of Guru Gobind Singh, the 10th Sikh guru.
Legends state that once Vasti Ram was approached by the people of Lahore to find a permanent solution to the floods caused by the Ravi. Vasti Ram settled at one spot, where his samadhi now lies, and the river never flooded the city again as long as the saint lived.