Gurdwara Rori Sahib stands atop a mound where Guru Nanak and Bhai Mardana are believed to have sat and sung songs.—Photo by the author
A short distance from here, along the border, is Ghavindi, another historical village believed to have been frequented by Guru Nanak and Bhai Mardana on their journeys from Dera Chahal to Sultanpur Lodhi, where Guru Nanak first found employment.
Outside the village, the first Sikh guru is said to have found refuge under a grove of lahura (desert teak) trees. The gurdwara that came up at this site is a modest structure, with a single room and a small dome, hidden in the trees.
There are two platforms for sitting — the higher one representing Guru Nanak and the other, slightly lower, representing Bhai Mardana.
Straw and salt had been placed on the platforms, perhaps by villagers, to whom the shrine still held some sort of spiritual significance.
The most dangerous border in the world is just a kilometre from here.
Once splendid, now forgotten
South of Jahman and Ghavindi, in Kasur district, lie the remains of two historical gurdwaras associated with the third Sikh guru, Amar Das.
These are the only gurdwaras associated with Guru Amar Das in Pakistan.
The first of the abandoned gurdwaras is located in Tergay village, a few kilometres from the border. A long structure with a white dome, it stands on an empty ground.
It is believed that the guru was on his way to Kasur when he was welcomed by the people of this village, who requested him to stay with them.
Tying his horse to a tree, the guru is believed to have accompanied the villagers. The gurdwara was later built at the place where the guru reportedly tied his horse.
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A short distance from this gurdwara, in the village of Qadiwind, are the remains of Gurdwara Bhai Bahlol, named after a devotee of Guru Amar Das who is said to have built a water tank here to commemorate the guru’s visit.
Travelling further north along the border, one will come across the historical village of Padhana, where the first settlers can be traced to the 11th century, according to the British land survey reports.
Here, right at the entrance of the village, lie the remains of what once was a splendid gurdwara. A spacious structure with a vast vacant ground around it, there was a giant lock at the entrance to the complex the day I visited the village.
This is one of several gurdwaras in Pakistani Punjab associated with the sixth Sikh guru, Guru Hargobind. The guru is believed to have arrived in Padhana, a prominent village, on the exhortation of its residents. Later, his devotees constructed a gurdwara in his name.
Barely a kilometre from the border, this shrine is now a pitiful sight compared to the freshly painted gurdwara that stands on the other side of the divide.