HERITAGE: OPENING THE GATES TO SHARDA PEETH
Owing to its breathtaking natural beauty and rich spiritual legacy, Kashmir has always attracted people belonging to different faiths. The region is home to numerous holy sites, including the temples of Jammu, the Gompas of Ladakh, and the shrines, mosques and temples of the Kashmir Valley. Amidst this spiritual mosaic lies the enigmatic Sharda Peeth, a pilgrimage site of immense significance for the Hindu community, who consider it to be the abode of the goddess Saraswati — the embodiment of knowledge and wisdom.
Recently, the spotlight has once again fallen on Sharda Peeth. During the virtual inauguration of the Mata Sharda Devi Temple in Teetwal, Kupwara [in India-held Jammu and Kashmir] on March 22, 2023, Indian home minister Amit Shah proposed that Sharda Peeth, which is located in Azad Jammu and Kashmir (AJK), should be opened for Hindu pilgrims travelling from India. Shah believes that the temple’s establishment marks a turning point in unravelling the mysteries of the Sharda civilisation and its script.
Given the newfound interest in Sharda Peeth, it’s crucial to take a closer look at its heritage and importance in Hinduism. Moreover, we need to examine the prospects of opening the site for pilgrimage, taking into account the ongoing public discourse in AJK.
Behind the Name
Sharda is regarded by Hindus as an incarnation of the goddess Saraswati and is considered to be the goddess of learning and knowledge. Interestingly, the Sanskrit etymology of the term Sharda could also be related to ancient terms meaning “flow or stream” and “blow, tip or rock” as the site was situated at the confluence of three streams. Peeth simply means seat or abode. This fascinating etymology sheds light on the significance of this enigmatic site and its deep connection to the natural landscape of Kashmir.
Sharda Peeth in Azad Jammu and Kashmir holds immense religious, historical and anthropological significance. But can its importance escape the confines of Pak-India tensions?
Situated along the Neelum River, the site is perched at a height of 6,499 feet above sea level, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape. It is approximately 150km from Muzaffarabad, the capital city of AJK, and 130km from Srinagar. Interestingly, Sharda Peeth is only 10km away from the Line of Control (LoC).
The History
Sharda Peeth, a venerated temple with a history dating back to the 8th century, was renowned as a distinguished centre of learning. Its reputation drew students from around the world, including Greece, Mesopotamia, Central Asia, Tibet and China. The temple housed over 5,000 scholars and boasted the largest library of its time.
According to historical accounts, Sharda Peeth was initially a revered site for Buddhists, who used it as a centre of learning before it was transformed into a Hindu temple. Despite its conversion, the site remained a respected and significant cultural landmark during the reign of the 13th and 14th century Muslim kings of Kashmir.
The temple was an essential centre of the Kashmir Shaivism tradition of Hinduism. It served as a prestigious university that offered courses in various fields, such as philosophy, theology, mathematics and linguistics. Its vast library, containing thousands of manuscripts and books, was a major attraction for scholars, who would travel long distances to access its texts.
Sharda Peeth was also a centre of pilgrimage for Hindus who believed that the temple was the abode of the goddess Saraswati, the deity of learning and wisdom. It welcomed many historical and religious figures over the centuries, including the renowned Hindu religious guru Adi Shankaracharya.
Despite the damage caused due to floods, and its remote location, the temple’s historical significance can still be observed in the inscriptions and manuscripts found in the surrounding areas. These documents were written in the ancient Sharda script, used for writing Sanskrit and other languages in the Kashmir Valley. The Sharda script was so influential that it earned Kashmir the nickname “Sharda Desh”, meaning “country of Sharda.”
As one of the Maha Shakti Peethas, Hindus consider Sharda Peeth as the spiritual location of the goddess Sati’s fallen right hand. It is one of the three holiest sites of pilgrimage for Kashmiri Pandits, along with the Martand Sun Temple and the Amarnath Temple.
Despite its significance, the exact beginnings of Sharda Peeth are unclear and the question of its origin is difficult to answer, because it may have been both a temple and an educational institution.
Al-Biruni recorded the place for the first time as a revered shrine housing a wooden image of Sharda. However, he had never ventured into Kashmir and based his observations primarily on hearsay.
Kalhan, the famous historian who wrote Rajatarangini, said that disciples of the 8th century Gaud King Lalitaditya had come all the way from Bengal to Kashmir to pay a visit to this Sharda Mandir. Mughal emperor Akbar’s grand vizier Abul Fazal, who is renowned as the author of the Akbarnama, has also made a reference to this place, describing the stone-crafted Sharda Mandir as a beautiful temple situated on the bank of the river Madhumati (Kishan Ganga).
An Architectural Marvel
According to Dr Rukhsana Khan, a leading art historian and archaeologist, the Sharda Temple is a true masterpiece of architectural innovation. The construction style of the square room, elevated on a platform with a west-facing entrance, is nothing short of remarkable. The two columns flanking the entrance bear a striking resemblance to the Doric style of Greek architecture, adding a touch of exotic charm to the structure.
As the Focal Person of the Sharda Centre of Learning Archaeology and Cultural Heritage (SCL) at the University of Azad Jammu and Kashmir, Dr Khan revealed that the temple’s three-sided walls are a perfect mirror of the pyramidal Shikara of Kashmiri style. The fusion of these two styles creates an awe-inspiring work of art that is truly unique. This style of construction, which is raised on a high platform, was extensively used in many parts of Kashmir and northern India, making the Sharda Temple a significant example of the region’s cultural heritage.
Mysteries of Sharda Peeth
With time, this revered location has become the subject of many intriguing myths and legends. Some are so bizarre that they may seem unfounded or completely unbelievable. Nonetheless, they continue to fascinate and mystify those who visit this enigmatic place. Here are just a few of the captivating tales that have been woven into the tapestry of Sharda Peeth’s mystique.
According to one myth, the river near Sharda Peeth is cursed and anyone who tries to cross it will face terrible consequences. Some people believe that the river is inhabited by evil spirits that will drag unsuspecting travellers underwater. One popular legend declares that a large rock near the temple floats in the air during certain times of the day. Devotees believe that touching the rock brings good luck and prosperity.
Another myth goes that the Pandavas, the five legendary brothers and the heroes of the Hindu epic The Mahabharata, visited the temple during their exile and were refused entry by the temple priests. In anger, the Pandavas cursed the temple, which led to its downfall. It is also said that the idol of Saraswati was stolen from the temple by a thief who later returned it after being haunted by the goddess in his dreams.
Similarly, some believe that the goddess Saraswati cursed the temple after a king named Prahlad refused to pay homage to her. As a result of the curse, the temple was abandoned and fell into ruin.
A Corridor of Hope?
Through a meticulous compilation and analysis of views shared on various social media platforms, I have encountered a wide spectrum of opinions regarding the proposed Sharda Peeth Corridor, which would allow pilgrims to travel from India-held Jammu and Kashmir to AJK.
It is evident that these views are far from monolithic and often diverge, depending on the individual and their political affiliation. Nevertheless, there are common viewpoints expressed by AJK residents and politicians that deserve attention and exploration.
For instance, some in the region support the opening of the Sharda Peeth Corridor, terming it a potential confidence building measure and a way to promote people-to-people contact and religious tourism between India and Pakistan. Others believe that the Sharda Peeth Temple is a significant religious site for Kashmiri Hindus and reopening it would preserve the cultural and religious heritage of the region.
However, some express concerns about the security implications of opening the corridor, given the disputed nature of the territory and potential infiltration by Indian security forces. There are also concerns that the proposed route of the Sharda Peeth Corridor passes through environmentally sensitive areas, including wildlife sanctuaries, and could have adverse impacts on the surrounding environment.
Some critics suggest that the corridor proposal is part of a larger agenda by the Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP)-led Indian government to establish a greater presence in AJK, in an attempt to legitimise India’s claim over the region.
In addition to the Sharda Peeth Corridor, there are calls for reciprocal visa-free travel for Kashmiri Muslims in AJK to visit Hazratbal, Charar-i-Sharif, Khanqah-i-Moula and other revered places in India-held Kashmir. There are also demands to improve cross-LoC trade and commerce for the benefit of people on both sides of the region.
Last but not least, there are repeated calls for the establishment of a humanitarian corridor for divided Kashmiri families. The provision of such a corridor would allow them to meet their relatives across the LoC.
Pakistan’s Dilemma
The proposal to open the Sharda Peeth Corridor has sparked heated debate and also courted controversy. Despite Pakistan’s repeated expressions of willingness to facilitate Hindu pilgrimage to the Sharda Peeth Temple, concerns about the practicality and security of opening the corridor remain valid.
It is worth noting that Pakistan has already set a precedent of opening corridors for religious tourism, such as the Kartarpur Corridor for Sikh pilgrims. However, the situation in Kashmir is markedly different from that of Punjab, and the circumstances surrounding the opening of the Sharda Peeth Corridor must be carefully considered.
In light of India’s continued usurpation of the fundamental rights of Kashmiris and the targeted persecution of minorities, particularly Muslims, it would be difficult for Pakistan to open the Sharda Peeth Corridor without first addressing these issues. The people of Kashmir have been the worst victims of Indian subjugation and are unlikely to support the opening of the corridor if they perceive that it is solely to benefit Hindus without any reciprocal benefit for Muslims.
Moreover, India’s actions in India-held Kashmir, including the imposition of a prolonged siege and the revocation of the region’s special status, have only served to exacerbate tensions in the region. In such a volatile climate, the opening of the Sharda Peeth Corridor without addressing the underlying issues and grievances of the people of Kashmir could lead to further unrest and instability.
In short, the potential benefits of opening the Sharda Peeth Corridor for promoting people-to-people contact and religious tourism cannot be denied. However, it is crucial to address the concerns and grievances of all parties involved, especially the people of Kashmir, to ensure the success and sustainability of this initiative.
Simply opening the corridor without addressing the underlying issues and grievances of the people is not enough and may even lead to further tensions in the region. Therefore, a comprehensive and inclusive approach must be adopted, to ensure that the Sharda Peeth Corridor becomes a symbol of hope and unity rather than a source of conflict and tension.
The writer is based in Muzaffarabad and writes on culture, tourism and higher education. He tweets @SMubasharNaqvi
Published in Dawn, EOS, May 7th, 2023