With the start of Muharram, the sale of symbols of repentance and devotion, largely associated with the Battle of Karbala and the martyrdom of Imam Hussain, grandson of the Holy Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him), has picked up steam in the garrison city.

The old downtown is buzzing with activity, as people throng this part of the city to buy Alam (black standards) and Punja (metal hand), associated with Karbala, to adorn their houses.

Alam, or a battle standard, and Punja are associated with Hazrat Abbas, son of Hazrat Ali (A.S), who was the standard-bearer in Karbala. There are two types of Alam –black for mourning and red symbolising Imam Hussain’s blood.

In the old bazaar from Purana Qila to Sarafa Bazaar, craftsmen are working day and night to keep the tradition alive, amid an increase in demand. The use of religious symbols to keep Karbala alive goes back to pre-colonial India.

Like several cities in India, Rawalpindi also emerged as the hub of Muharram-related commercial activity.

Some of the shops in the city are as much as 100 years old, where craftsmen spend their time designing Alam, making cradles (jhoola), and moulding Punja - all of these items are in great demand, particularly ahead of Muharram.

In addition to houses where black standards flutter, these representations are the highlight of Muharram processions and Imambargahs across the city.

Craftsmen, Dawn talked to during a visit to the old bazaar, called their work a ‘labour of love’.

Syed Hassan, a shopkeeper in Purana Qila, said that he had been making Alam for the last 30 years. He explained that the cost of an Alam varies – some are adorned with gold and silver thread which is used to inscribe ‘Ya Hussain’ or ‘Ya Abbas’ among other inscriptions on black velvet cloth or some other expensive fabric.

“The manufacturing process is completed in three stages. In the first step, names are traced onto the fabric. This step is followed by embroidery, and in the last step, the fabric is given the shape of a flag. Usually, triangular flags are prepared and the size can range from two feet to 10 feet as per the requirement of the clients,” he explained.

In Sarafa Bazaar and adjoining streets, crowds were keeping the shopkeepers busy. “We make small cradles from silver and steel. In the past, many people placed orders for gold but the price of gold has increased manifold, putting an end to this practice,” Haider Ali, a craftsman in Sarafa Bazaar, told Dawn.

“Though, I worked as a goldsmith, moulding steel into Punja is a labour of love as well as an art,” he said, explaining that Punja is imported from Lahore and Gujranwala. Since it is an arduous process and there is a low demand for it, not many shops in Rawalpindi mould these, he said, adding that only a few people made it out of passion.

“The sale of religious replicas is not limited to Muharram only but throughout the year. However, after Ramazan, there is a surge in business as people visit this part of the town to place orders for Alam and related accessories.

“People mostly install Alam and Punja on their rooftops and they come to the bazaar, particularly after Ramazan to place orders as per their requirement,” Mohammad Anwar said.

Speaking about cradles associated with Hazrat Ali Asghar – an infant killed in Karbala – he said people buy these cradles for ‘mannat’ (offering) and if their plea is fulfilled they offer these cradles at Shah Chan Chiragh or some other shrine.

He said that his shop also repaired old cradles as well. He said that Tazia-making is also done in the bazaar, but Imambargahs, such as Colonel Maqbool Imambargah, mostly have their own Tazias (miniature replicas of tombs of Imam Hussain or other holy personages).

Published in Dawn, July 24th, 2023