SITUATED on main National Highway in Landhi, around 30 kilometers from the centre of the city lies the Chaukandi graveyard; a rare historical place in Karachi, a city about which the general impression is that it does not have such centuries-old historical places.

Built presumably during the 17th century and attributed to the Jokhio and Baloch tribes who once inhabited the area, the tombs in this cemetery are a masterpiece of funerary art. The graves are notable for their elaborate sandstone carvings.

When I first heard about it, I instantly made up my mind to make a visit and explore this place and tell others. But I kept thinking about as to why it was not much known by the people of the city. Was it not worth visiting? Was it far off from the city? Or was there any other reason?

On the next day, I was on my way to visit the graveyard. Although I met much traffic during my journey, the road up to N-5 was fine. But once you turn towards the road that leads to the gate of the cemetery, the entire road leading to it is completely dilapidated.

Neglect, elements have taken their toll on one of Karachi’s few historical sites

But that was just a glimpse of the gravity of situation. What is more is that the site has been heavily encroached upon by people. And trash was lying outside the place. Children of the locals were playing in the dirty water that came out of sewerages; all of which is enough to deter would-be enthusiasts from visiting this site. It seemed by no means to be a tourist spot when seen from the outside.

Nevertheless, as I entered in the cemetery, a sense of solemnity and tranquility settled upon me. The air seemed to carry a hushed reverence for the slumbering souls. Clouds covered the sky across the horizon and cool breeze was blowing. There were small groups of sightseers siting on benches and walking around the graves.

As I read the names and dates etched into the weathered stones, I felt a deep connection with the past. Each grave had its own story to tell, and I couldn’t help but wonder about the lives that once thrived in this place.

Renowned archaeologist and historian Dr Kaleemullah Lashari, while talking to Dawn, shed light on the stories behind these graves. “These tribes were scattered across a vast land and the areas where they lived were less populated and due to this, government control had never been strong in here. So the tribes living in this area had their own laws,” he said.

He said these tribes had friendly relations but there was also tribal rivalry. They also fought against each other for various reasons. “Due to this culture of tribal rivalry and the idea of honour, making expensive and good-looking stone carved graves for brave and notable people when they died or got killed in a war was seen as a way of paying tribute to them and for glorifying their tribes,” he said.

And these tribes did not have artists of their own who made these tombs, he said, adding that they came from other areas—mainly from Khatiawar and Gujrat (now Indian states). These artists travelled around and worked on contractual basis.

As I walked around, I noticed another problem that was causing serious damage to the authenticity of this heritage site: new graves of the area locals were being built there for the past many years due to which the original inhabitants of the graveyard might soon be outnumbered by the newly deceased.

On this, Dr Lashari said, “Yes, it might lose its authenticity. If a site has been declared protected, then it should be protected, but the problem here is that there’s no other graveyard nearby where people can bury their dead.”

As for the issue of encroachment, he shared that when he was in the Antiquities department, he had written many letters to government officials as well as police authorities about this but nothing happened.

Apart from these issue, stealing of valuable stones from these graves was another problem that I noticed. Plundering has rendered some graves disproportionate in size and shape. Also, no security guard could be seen checking people at the entrance of the graveyard and safeguard it from such thieves.

When approached, Director General Department of Culture, Tourism, Antiquities & Archives Manzoor Ahmed Kanasro said their department had written many times to the area deputy commissioners about the issue of encroachments outside the graveyard, but no action was taken.

As for the problem of new graves of the area locals inside Chowkandi premises, he said some people claimed they had a right to bury their dead in this graveyard as their ancestors were buried there many years ago.

“So action was taken and police was asked to register FIRs against them. However, the cases were not registered as these people approached the concerned minister and it was finally decided that in a separate corner of the graveyard burials would be allowed but for only those whose ancestors had already been buried there,” he said.

Furthermore, he said there was no danger of the site being delisted from Unesco because what the department did was in accordance with the Operational Guidelines for the Implementation of the World Heritage Convention, which said that a buffer zone could be created in a heritage site wherever necessary. This is outlined in section II-F: protection and management, of the Operational Guideline, point 103, titled Buffer Zones.

Former Culture, Tourism and Antiquities, Minister Sardar Ali Shah, was not available for comments.

Published in Dawn, September 10th, 2023