On any given evening in the past month, a line of customers steadily grows at the beginning of Ilford Lane, just a short walk from the train station.

Families, the elderly and students queue up to get their hands on the now famous ‘iftar box’ at Pahalwan Biryani — a less than one-year-old biryani joint that has become a local sensation in east London. They all know that, come iftar, it’s time for the signature Pahalwan box: a decent serving of part biryani, part pulao and part zarda.

Since the beginning of Ramazan, the owner, Ustad Zafar Pahalwan, and his small team have been handing out 600 biryani boxes for free to anyone who shows up, an offer that has drawn crowds at a time when the cost of living crisis has made the holy month and upcoming festive period a difficult time.

Research by Asda last month showed the shocking impact that soaring costs have on communities, as over 89 per cent of British Muslims say it will impact their Ramazan and Eid plans this year. Nearly one in five (18pc) plan to spend between £20-£30 less on food per week than in 2023, and 17pc will have to change cooking techniques due to energy prices.

“Around 5pm, we lay out long buffet-style tables on the pavement across from our shop and put fruit platters and dates there for passing rozaydars,” says Pahalwan, acknowledging that the practice is technically not allowed by the local council without a license. “But the authorities don’t stop us. They know we are doing something good for the community. If we don’t feed these people, someone else will have to.”

Originally from Lahore, Pahalwan moved to London in the 90s and put his cooking skills to use. There isn’t a Pakistani restaurant in London where he hasn’t worked, he says, adding that he has a love for cooking and is always thinking of new items on the menu. But life hasn’t been easy, and his business is far from secure, even despite the hordes of paying customers.

“My account was in overdraft when I started this business last year, and it still is in overdraft,” Pahalwan says with a chuckle. After all, of the 600 kilo-worth of chicken biryani he cooks in a day, at least half is distributed for free.

How can he possibly sustain a business like this when he has to pay rent and the salaries of the young men and women working in the kitchen, I ask. Who pays for it? Pahalwan points to the sky saying, “He does. Believe me I have no idea how this is happening, but it is. And I don’t have the heart to stop, whether the economics of it makes sense to you or not.”

The modest corner shop is certainly not the only biryani joint in this part of town. The bustling Ilford Lane, known by many as ‘mini Pakistan’, easily has a dozen or more restaurants that serve biryani. Neither would it easily win a competition for the tastiest biryani in town, as its overwhelming spice is not for the faint-hearted. But at £2.99 a plate, it is easily the cheapest biryani in town compared to other parts of London where it sells for between £5 and £13 a plate.

Despite the affordable price, Pahalwan says there are students who cannot afford to buy it. So he came up with a solution: two large posters inside and on the storefront read “free biryani for students eat as much as you can unlimited refill”.

Vikash, a young man from Srinagar who is a paying customer at the shop, admits that there is no cheaper biryani. “It’s cheap, it’s comfort food and those who can’t afford it are welcomed – that’s why students love to come here,” he says.

When asked what he thinks of the charitable nature of Pahalwan, and whether it’s a sustainable business model, Vikash says, “It is quite unique. From a business perspective it makes no sense, except that maybe he is eyeing long-term gains. Us students will get jobs and earn someday, but we will be fans of this place and have an attachment to it. Then even the non-paying ones will happily come and pay.”

Pahalwan’s business plans are not well-thought-out, but his charity continues. His shop has a sign that appeals to the local council to lower rents for student accommodation. He is already planning Eid day menus and deals.

In tears, he said: “I can’t believe how we have become popular so soon. When I was en route to Pakistan some months back, I stopped at Dubai airport where someone recognised me from social media clips and asked if I am Pahalwan. I have faith that good will come and my business will be fine.”

Header image: Ustad Zafar Pahalwan stands outside his biryani shop in Ilford as customers line up for takeaway boxes.—Photo by the writer

Published in Dawn, April 9th, 2024