ISLAMABAD: Despite the nation’s rich mountaineering legacy, it has yet to claim a climber who has conquered all 14 of the highest peaks in the world.

However, this narrative might soon undergo a significant shift with climbers like Sajid Sadpara leading the charge, said Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP).

Renowned for its formidable peaks, including five of the world’s towering 8,000 metres mountains, Pakistan stands on the cusp of mountaineering history, said ACP secretary Karrar Haidri.

Sajid Sadpara, son of the late legendary climber Mohammad Ali Sadpara, was currently embarking on a monumental journey towards the 8,586 metres tall Kangchenjunga in Nepal and the third highest peak in the world. Should he succeed, it would mark his ninth conquest of an 8,000 metres peak.

ACP said what set Sajid Sadpara apart was his remarkable feat of scaling these peaks without the aid of supplementary oxygen, a feat he accomplished even on Mt Everest last year. Once again, Sajid Sadpara would brave the unforgiving heights as part of the rope-fixing team, eschewing bottled oxygen and personal sherpa support.

ACP says Sajid Sadpara currently on conquest of third highest peak

Following Kangchenjunga, Sajid Sadpara’s odyssey continued with four more mountains on his agenda the 8,516 metres Lhotse (4th highest in the world), 8,485 metres Makalu (5th highest) and the formidable Tibetan giants 8,188 metres Cho Oyu (6th highest) and Shisha Pangma 8,027 metres, 14th highest peak in the world.

Meanwhile, two other Pakistani climbers, Sirbaz Khan and Shehroze Kashif, also had their sights set on Shisha Pangma, aiming to etch their names in mountaineering lore by completing their 14×8,000m quest on the Tibetan giant.

ACP pointed out that Sirbaz Khan, known for his indomitable spirit and swift ascent, often collaborated with Mingma G’s Imagine Nepal team. With 10 of his 138,000-metre summits conquered without supplementary oxygen. Khan’s prowess on the mountains has earned him accolades from the mountaineering community.

On the other hand, Shehroze Kashif, one of the youngest faces in the high-altitude climbing scene, has been supported by Seven Summit Treks throughout his mountaineering endeavours. Having shattered age records with his ascent of Broad Peak at the age of 17, Shehroze Kashif continued to make waves in the mountaineering world.

Among Pakistani women, Naila Kiani has been a beacon of inspiration, achieving her 10th 8,000 metres summit by conquering Cho Oyu last fall. Despite her ambitious plans to tackle Shisha Pangma, avalanches halted her journey, underscoring the unpredictable and perilous nature of high-altitude mountaineering.

As the mountaineering community eagerly awaited their next moves, Naila Kiani, in particular, aimed to foster a culture of athleticism among Pakistani women, hoping to ignite a passion for sports and adventure in the younger generation.

Mr Haidri said that in a nation where only one per cent of women participated in sports, Naila Kiani’s achievements served as a testament to the boundless potential of Pakistani mountaineers, inspiring future generations to reach new heights both on and off the mountains.

Published in Dawn, April 15th, 2024