Nihari is derived from the word ‘nihaar’ which means early morning, making it something to be had first thing early in the morning. It is a much sought-after, spicy, gravy-based dish in the Subcontinent, traditionally made with camel meat and an aromatic blend of spices and oil.

According to one legend, it was first prepared according to a hakeem’s [physician] medical prescription to treat the Mughal emperor Akbar. It was around the time when he had set up his empire’s capital in Delhi and his digestion had suffered a major setback at the hands of both the atmosphere and water. The prescription aimed to boost his body’s immunity, by kicking it into high gear at the crack of dawn, and it is widely believed that it did the trick.

Another legend says it was the nutritious meaty broth that was served to the soldiers as breakfast after being slow-cooked overnight, because it was nutritious and the gravy made it abundant for serving large groups.

No wonder, then, that as a kid visiting Pakistan in the seventies, I would witness my paternal uncle and older cousins leaving stainless steel utensils at a nearby popular nihari restaurant in Nazimabad, only to have them magically filled to the brim come Fajr time, and ready to be devoured for breakfast by my family, much to my dislike.

Waris Nihari in Lahore’s Moon Market is still carrying on the decades-old family tradition of serving delicious and lip-smacking nihari

That was then. Times changed and so did my tastes, as did the nation’s overall eating habits and general health.

Now, nihari is available round the clock for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and is usually made from beef, though there are chicken variations as well. Sounds downright sacrilegious — the well-meaning hakeem must be turning in his grave, the poor soul!

Waris Nihari (probably the most popular ‘Waris’ after the hugely popular Amjad Islam Amjad hit TV drama of the eighties) in Lahore’s Moon Market, Satluj Block, is what Zahid Nihari is to Karachiites.

In actual fact, Waris Nihari dates way back to 1960 — it has changed locations, but the taste still remains deliciously the same. The condiments and special masala sprinkled on top of the broth has a lot to do with it, as does the khameeri [yeast-activated] tandoori naan, which notches up the flavour by quite a few points.

The menu has the usual options of maghaz [stir-fried goat’s brain] and nalli [marrow] to add to the standard nihari, to amp up its flavour. So it’s basically up to you and your choice of how you like your plate of nihari served to you.

The next time you’re in Lahore (if you’re not a resident), do remember to pay your respects to Waris Nihari, for holding up the tradition and keeping it together for all these years (approximately over six decades), which, by any means, is no mean feat.

The writer is a member of staff.
X: faisal_quraishi

Published in Dawn, EOS, April 28th, 2024