ABanarasi kameez, marked by a stubborn stain, that needed to be salvaged was taken to a dyer at Usmania Tower, Rehmat Chowk Wapda Town. He examined the kameez like a seasoned artisan, nodding as he traced the stain with his calloused fingers.

“What colour would you like to change it to?” he asked. He was told that a maroon shade would suit the kameez.

When asked whether the gold Banarasi Botti design would fade or lose its colour, the dyer said: “The Banarasi Botti is crafted to retain its brilliance. It will remain as vibrant as ever, even after dyeing.”

When the kameez was returned next day, it had been transformed into a vibrant colour. The stain had disappeared.

This anecdote is testament to the transformative power of the art of dyeing and craftsmanship thriving in Pakistan’s bazaars where artisans breathe life into fabrics.

The art of dyeing in Pakistan has a long-standing tradition dating back to ancient times, with techniques that utilise natural dyes derived from plants and minerals.

The Indus Valley Civilisation left behind significant archaeological evidence. Remnants of dyed fabrics and impressions on pottery indicate that Indus Valley had developed sophisticated techniques for dyeing textiles as early as 2500 BCE.

The influences of Persian Empire, the Mughals and British rule also contributed to evolution of textile crafts and dyeing practices. Techniques such as block printing, tie-dye and various methods of resist dyeing show how craft of dyeing evolved. Ajrak dyeing is famous in regions like Sindh and Punjab. It involves intricate block printing and dyeing with natural indigo and other dyes.

A walk through traditional bazaars shows dyers surrounded by large metal bowls or cauldrons, filled with boiling water and vibrant hues. This is where the magic happens—transforming plain fabrics into dazzling textiles.

Ali Ahmed, a third-generation dyer in Ichhra Bazaar, shares his daily routine: “Every morning, we clean the cauldrons first, set them up and prepare the dyes. The water must reach the right temperature before we start dyeing fabrics”.

“I learned this from my ustaads. I’ve been doing this for the past 40 years. I started at the age of sixteen,” says Ahmed.

There was wistfulness in his voice as he spoke. “Back in the days, we used plants, flowers and saffron to make these colours but not anymore. We have chemicals now”.

The dyer’s words painted a vivid picture of a craft that has evolved significantly over the decades. The shift from natural to chemical dyes shows changes in the industry, influenced by economic pressures and demands of consumers.

While chemical dyes provide consistency and a broader range of colours, they come with significant drawbacks. The mention of ‘chemicals’ hints at the environmental and health challenges associated with their use.

Synthetic dyes often contain harmful substances that can lead to water pollution and pose risks to the health of workers. The discharge of leftover dye into local waterways is also a pressing issue.

The decline in the use of natural dyes represents the loss of knowledge passed down through generations. As the dyer reminisced about the past, it was clear that this shift had not only changed the materials used but had also eroded a part of cultural heritage. The intricate knowledge of creating colours from nature, once a closely guarded skill, is now fading.

The traditional dyeing is facing stiff competition from modern textile factories that can produce large quantities quickly. The large-scale production capabilities of famous textile brands underscore the challenge faced by small-scale dyers who rely on time-honoured, labour-intensive processes.

These factories, using advanced technologies and synthetic dyes, dominate the market, making it hard for traditional dyers to compete on price.

Despite industrialisation, artisanal dyeing retains cultural importance. These traditional dyers play a crucial role in local economies and support fabric sellers, tailors and other artisans.

As the textile industry evolves, there is a growing need for skill development among the dyers to adapt to new technologies and sustainable practices.

Published in Dawn, July 29th, 2024