As the scorching heat wave eases and gives way to more pleasant, milder temperatures, beach-goers come out in droves to scour the shoreline. So how can summer fashion lag far behind? Out come the tropical floral prints in crisp cotton and linen shirts, Bermuda shorts, straw sun hats, comfy-looking flip-flops and chilled mocktails with twisted straws and decorative mini-umbrellas.

This was the theme and the opening act of the catwalk parade titled Runway 2024: Summer Edition recently held at the Russian Centre for Science and Culture (Friendship House) in Karachi. The event featured the carefully curated collections of five designers, an energetic performance by Lahore-based solo act Ayyan Rockstar and a hair trends show by Ilyas Salon.

A brilliant white ramp guided guests to their seats before menswear designer Zubair Shah’s resort-wear collection titled Tropical Paradise began the show.

The lush green surroundings with towering palm trees swaying in the cool summer breeze provided the perfect setting for the collection as the models took to the ramp in a vibrant display of colourful shirts in breezy summer fabric, print trousers and sarongs. They were accessorised by chunky necklaces, hats, trendy sunshades, beach sandals and umbrellas, creating the perfect resort-wear look — a fairly new fashion phenomenon in Pakistan, but the ever-increasing number of destination weddings will soon change all that.

Social media stars and influencers Irfanul Haq and Arshan Ali, with TV drama sensation Sarah Omair donning a mint-green modified suit, walked the ramp for the designer. A brief segment featuring hair trends by the official styling team of Ilyas Salon displayed hairstyles popular with Gen-Z.

Runway 2024: Summer Edition was the collective effort of talented young individuals aspiring to put Pakistani fashion back on track and make it a mainstay in the international fashion arena

Next up, the princely sherwanis by Uzee Brothers featured prominently due to their tone-on-tone embellishments, embroideries and well-crafted cuts. Models Arshan Ali, Meer Hamza and Haider Ali particularly stood out in head-turning grooms-wear sherwanis.

The women’s-wear here stood out on various counts: it featured delicate Multani hand-embroidery painstakingly carried out by rural female artisans, fine chikankari work on cotton fabric, bridal-wear that has the capacity to become heirloom pieces handed down from generation to generation, and traditional Baloch embroidery done by women from the region.

Of these, Seema Shah’s work with Multani craftspersons put stark white chikankari kameezes on the ramp and paired them with vibrant Multani hand-embroidered shalwars and flowy chiffon dupattas to create a spectacular and mesmerising effect.

The grand final act by K. Yousuf showcased heavy formals primarily meant for bridal trousseau collections as the wedding season approaches. With metallic embellishments coupled with silk tread embroideries, the collection based in both pastels and vibrant hues oozed oomph, style and elegance, all while the silhouettes remained traditionally Eastern with lehengas and fusion-wear for shirts and kameezes.

Jan Bibi Collection paid tribute to the hardworking women of rural Balochistan who weave and embroider intricate patterns handed down across generations in order to support and supplement their household income, and to put their children through school and college. Each stitch and motif told a different story of cultural and traditional influences — all coming together on the fabric to create a narrative rarely heard before. The menswear in this segment featured the traditional Baloch attire for men, with stiff white cotton shalwar kameez paired with embroidered waistcoats and heavy turbans.

Aside from the fashion, the engaging act by Ayaan Rockstar halfway through the show saw a few enthusiasts abandoning their seats to impulsively perform bhangra alongside the singer in a fully charged burst of great energy that had the audience clapping and cheering.

Runway 2024: Summer Edition was a welcome sight given that fashion-related events in Pakistan continue to suffer from a severe lack of sponshorship during these financially harsh times, with established fashion councils in both Karachi and Lahore having rolled up the red carpet. Hence, it is heartening to note that the collective efforts of some committed young individuals belonging to different professions, from both within Pakistan and abroad — under the mentorship of a few fashion industry veterans — are carrying on the good fight and are taking Pakistani fashion forwards and into the future.

The Runway 2024: Summer Edition choreography was by Asif Rehman, with Syeda Nazia as the Red Carpet host. Hair & make-up of the female models and grooming of the male models was by Ilyas Salon 

Published in Dawn, ICON, September 15th, 2024