GILGIT: Sirbaz Khan has become the first Pakistani climber to summit all 14 mountains with a height of over 8,000m in the world after his latest feat at the Shishapangma peak (8,027m) in Tibet.

In mountaineering, sum­miting all 14 ‘eight-thousanders’ is considered the biggest trophy, with only a handful of climbers being able to accomplish the feat till date.

In a statement, Imagine Nepal, Mr Khan’s summit organiser, said 11 climbers reached the summit at 4:06pm local time on Thursday.

Five group members, including Mr Khan, completed the summit of all 14 8,000ers, with MingmaG doing so without supplemental oxygen, the organisers added.

Renowned Pakistani alpinist Naila Kiani confirmed Mr Khan’s accomplishment on Friday. “History has been made,” she wrote in a Facebook post.

Alpine Club of Pakistan Secretary Karrar Haidri hailed Mr Khan for “breaking boundaries” with his latest summit.

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He said the mountaineer’s journey “exemplifies the power of perseverance and meticulous preparation, cementing his place in mountaineering history”.

Hailing from Aliabad village of Hunza, Mr Khan started his alpine career as a porter and kitchen boy 11 years ago.

He is also the first Pakistani climber to have summited 11 out of the 14 peaks without supplemental oxygen and ascended Mount Everest twice.

Published in Dawn, October 5th, 2024