Fried chicken is the comfort food of our times — there are different versions of it around the globe from Puerto Rico’s pollo frito to Japan’s karaage to South Korea’s yangnyeom (a heavenly version of twice-fried chicken lathered in a spicy gochujang sauce). Of course, for most Pakistanis, nothing beats the Zinger-style, where the desi love of spices meets the crispiness of fried chicken, in a burger patty bathed in mayonnaise and enveloped in a soft, brioche bun.

Interestingly, even though Southerners in the United States claim fried chicken as being invented in their backyard, and is considered an iconic dish of the region, it might not even be American but Scottish. As food writer, John F Mariani, pointed out in his 1983 book The Encyclopedia of American Food & Drink, the Scots, who preferred to fry their chicken instead of boiling or baking it as the English did, may have brought the method with them to the US.

In the late 1990s, it was this American version of Southern-style fried chicken that dominated the global fast-food landscape, thanks to Kentucky Fried Chicken (KFC). The US-based food conglomerate exploded in popularity in Pakistan when it first opened in 1997 in Karachi’s Gulshan-i-Iqbal neighbourhood.

The Zinger burger was its most popular item; it inspired numerous copycats and found its way into every fast-food menu from the thelay wala down the street to local start-ups who capitalised on the trend. It also made Zinger ubiquitous — as part and parcel of desi street-food as chatpatta french fries. Zinger has now been added to everything: biryani, pizza, kebab rolls.

Fried chicken is the universal comfort food, and for desis it comes with its signature and much-loved spicy crispiness

And while KFC’s popularity has waned over the decades, its legacy lives on in the various ways the famed fried chicken has been invented and reinvented, and in the new fast-food chains that still pop up with similar names (I’m looking at you, Kababjees Fried Chicken). Regardless of how Zinger got to your local food stall, one thing isn’t in doubt: it’ll be “finger lickin’ good.”

Zinger-Style Fried Chicken

Is there any point in repeating what is so good about this chicken? This can be served as is or use only breast pieces and make it into the classic Zinger-style burger. The key to making anything fried flavourful is to make sure to add seasonings to each step — so don’t be shy about using salt and pepper. And while it’s time-consuming to make, it’s worth the effort!

Ingredients

8 pieces of chicken, breast and/or drumstick
For the marinade
3 cups whole milk
2 tablespoons chilli sauce
2 tablespoons minced ginger-garlic paste
1 tablespoon black pepper
1 teaspoon garam masala
Salt, to taste
For the coating
1 tablespoon pepper
1 tablespoon salt
¾ cup white flour
2-3 cups cornflakes
1 egg, beaten
½-1 cup cooking oil

Method

1. Marinate the chicken. Make small cuts in the chicken pieces and place in a bowl. Mix all the spices together and divide into two. Rub half the spice mixture on the chicken. Cover the bowl with a lid or plate and place in the fridge, at least for two hours or preferably overnight (the longer the chicken marinates, the better the spices will be absorbed).

2. Tenderise the chicken. Pour milk in a large pot and stir in the remaining half of the spice mixture. Place the marinated chicken pieces in it. Cover with lid and refrigerate for a couple of hours.

3. After the chicken has been tenderised, cook the chicken in the milk. Heat the pot until the milk begins to boil, then lower the heat to a simmering point. Continue cooking for 20-30 minutes or until the chicken is cooked.

4. Remove the chicken from the pot and place on a flat surface or plate. Pat the chicken dry with tissue paper.

5. Crush the cornflakes with a mortar and pestle, or pour in a sealed plastic or cloth bag and smash them with a rolling pin.

6. Add salt and pepper to the flour and toss the mixture, stirring well. Pour the flour and cornflakes on to separate plates or flat surfaces.

7. Add a pinch of salt and pepper to the egg and whisk well.

8. Coat the chicken pieces in the flour, then dip in the egg, and then generously coat the chicken in the crushed cornflakes.

9. Heat oil in a frying pan. Fry each side for about a minute or until the cornflakes turn golden brown and crispy.

10. Serve piping hot with chilli sauce and chaat masala.

Published in Dawn, EOS, November 24th, 2024