KARACHI: The blue people
Here, one comes face to face with the Tuareg, a nomadic, ancient people related to the Berbers who are the subjects of Touaregs du Niger, an exhibition that kicked off at the Alliance Francaise Karachi on Saturday.
Mr Bernus, who passed away in 2004, was an emeritus research director at the French Institut de Recherche Pour le Developpement (IRD). Considered an expert on the Tuareg, he first started working with the nomadic African people in 1962.
Sometimes referred to as the ‘blue people’ because of the indigo-coloured flowing robes and turbans, which stain their skin blue, the wandering Tuareg can be found in a vast area of Africa spanning the countries of Niger, Mali, Algeria, Burkina Faso and Libya.
The photographs – mostly in colour – are intimate and succeed in showing the viewer the life-cycle of these sturdy people, as the photographer, who befriended one of the tribes, catches the subjects when their guard is down, thus taking away the veneer of artificiality.
Though there are detailed captions accompanying the photos, the fact they are entirely in French made it difficult for this writer to fully comprehend the extent of Mr Bernus’ research, compiled with the aid of over 6,000 documents. Thanks to the God-send that is the internet, the captions are available in English on the IRD’s website. But perhaps words are secondary as the pictures, as always, speak for themselves.There are images of the Tuareg at work and at play. A child sits in the lap of a turbaned elder, an innocent smile on its face, as the older man points to the camera. In another shot an old man and his much younger counterpart lead a camel train, as trading is integral to the Tuareg economy, with the tribesman carrying merchandise back and forth between North Africa and the cities of the southern Sahara.
A particular shot shows the martial traditions that strongly influence the Tuareg, as a man milks a camel with an impressive broadsword (called a takuba) by his side. The turban – called a tagelmust – is probably the most prominent motif and interestingly, the men cover their faces while the women don’t. In fact, Tuareg men consider it an act of shame to expose their noses or mouths in front of strangers or elders.
Perhaps one of the most stunning shots is that of a man, a glass of tea in his hand, intently listening to a transistor radio, with a boy, his hair braided, seated next to him with a pet kitten. Taken in 1975, it is striking as it shows that even these fiercely independent, traditional people cannot resist the lure of technology.
Though Muslims and followers of the Maliki school of thought, the Tuareg also incorporate animistic beliefs in their faith system. One shot shows a congregation in prayer on the occasion of Tabaski/Aid-el-Kabir, what we know as Eidul Azha.
Though the photography is marvellous, the presentation could do with improvement as the display – out in the open exposed to the elements – leaves a lot to be desired. Also, there was supposed to be a slideshow featuring the music of the Tuareg, but when this writer visited, there was nothing but the sound of silence.
The exhibition will run till April 26.—QAM